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Discussion about Transom Bows Whimbrel related

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Back in December 2011 there was some animated discussion about the design of boats with a transom bow - in this instance the discussion related to my Whimbrel design - with a number of people expressing their concern about Whimbrels bow transom being too wide and too close to the waterline. The feeling seemed to be that the bow would dig in on some points of sail, and would bash into the wave in a steep, choppy head sea, therefore slowing the boat, throwing spray into the air, and maybe causing wild steering running downwind.

This perspective shows Whimbrels hull viewed from the starboard bow - you can see that the base of the bow transom is close to the waterline when the boat is heavily loaded.

In this drawing there are three different waterlines drawn - the deepest one with her at close to one ton of displacement, which would not be likely to occur. But even at that heavy displacement the heel of the transom is just above the static waterline.

My argument was (and is) that the boat was designed to be only seventeen feet long, and that she would be faster, roomier, and more stable - for the load-carrying ability specified - with the large bow transom. For some background discussion on this matter have a look at this post  . In fact, if I had been brave enough to withstand the negative comments, I would have made Whimbrels bow transom vertical, as I am convinced that her performance would be superior if drawn that way. I must say the raked transom looks better in profile, but Im sure the performance is degraded.

I often quote Phil Bolger in my discussions, and at the time of the Whimbrel debate I used one of his remarks about bow transoms.

Fieldmouse - scanned from a photocopy sent to a customer by Phil Bolger in October 1971. Note how the waterline is at the heel of the vertical bow and stern transoms.
Here is Phils quote when discussing his Supermouse and Fieldmouse designs: -

"Raked transoms make a faster boat less badly stopped by waves if they are raked out from the given bottom length, but in that case the boat would be better still if the waterline were carried out to plumb transoms at the new overall length...." (Boats with an Open Mind, International Marine 1994)
The logic in this remark seems to be lost on most people, but the technical importance of this comment, and others, has obviously been understood by commenter, Graeme: -

"No corners painted by Bolger here - even on those square boats! ;-)

Whats not to understand? Drawing the bottom (and waterline) out to be as long as the deck of an otherwise raked ends hull makes for a narrower stern and narrower bow at the waterline. The finer entry is less stopped by waves and less wet. The drawn out waterline on the same beam has higher theoretical speed. Importantly (never forget the several intricate ways Bolger stressed the virtues of "shallow", this is but one) it also has less draft, and so less resistance, thereby being more likely to achieve or exceed that theoretical speed.

It is in no way all about the bottom though. What is often passed by in what Bolger said is that its the decks that raise hull cog, and Bolger viewed decks, rightly, as a penalty. Other considerations not withstanding, he may just have stuck to raked ends, clipper bows, and such, if hed been able to design decks of weightless unobtainium. As it is, plumb ends (and sides) impose a smaller deck weight penalty on a given bottom, or on stability, or on ability to stand up to sail, or on overall performance.

Flow on efficiencies there, which may also continue to run right into the pocket.

No corners then, painted or otherwise, rather Bolgers genious yet again seen remarkably squaring a circle unlooked for. A virtuous circle spiralling on with yet more angles round each turn.

Graeme"


You can read other very interesting comments by Graeme and Rick at the end of this post.

Now, I am not saying that bow transoms are the answer to everything. Most of my designs have unusually fine, sharp sections up forard. In fact, I sometimes wonder whether I may overdo it in an attempt to cut down pounding in a short head sea.

The very sharp entry on Flint

Periwinkle has a long, fine entry.
What I am saying is that for certain applications, a hull with a bow transom may be the most appropriate way to design a hull to perform a particular function and if one of the design constraints is overall length, then a wide, vertical transom extending almost to the waterline should be considered.
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Discussion about Flat Bottomed Hulls

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As I expected, publication of an opinion on the subject of flat bottomed boats has resulted in some discussion. Graham brought up the matter of adequate rocker and running the forefoot above the waterline (see my previous post), and he used Phil Bolgers Black Skimmer as an example. Black Skimmer is one of my all-time favourite designs, by the way - I think she is a superb example of sophisticated simplicity, and even after thirty-one years of studying her shape and construction, I still find her to be awe-inspiring.

Here is a photo of Black Skimmer, copied from Woodenboat Magazine - I hope I havent infringed any copyright. She is close to being my absolute favourite design.
Dennis has written in with the following: -

Ross, I love it that you are discussing flat bottomed skiffs. I love em. My first sailboat was a Bolger Featherwind which exhibited the design principles you mention in your post. I am not so sure I agree about the curvature in bottom and sides. W/L length gets shortened, more of the bottom is exposed to waves and the pounding is obnoxious (this is not to say that the boat was not a blast to sail). How would John Atkins Lark (143" sailing skiff) stack up to your discussion? It has a fine entry, but the stem is immersed. It has good flare and I would bet that it does not pound the fillings out of your teeth while sailing in a chop. While I have not built and sailed another flat bottomed skiff since owning the Featherwind, I will probably do so one day because the nostalgia of that first boat has a powerful draw. Best, Dennis

I know what Dennis is talking about, and it is a good demonstration of how everything in boat design requires compromise. The shape which provides the excellent sailing behaviour (adequate rocker, matched curvature of the topsides and the bottom panel, forefoot run above the waterline) is very likely to pound badly when floating level.


There are plenty of flat-bottomed skiff designs around which have the forefoot immersed, and scores of William and John Atkin boats provide excellent examples to study. One of my favourite Atkin designs is Ration and she shows exactly what we are talking about.
Lines of Ration - courtesy of Motor Boatings Ideal Series - Chapman and Horenburger
Ration shows a rowboat which is less likely to pound in a small chop - immersed forefoot and very fine entry at the waterline and bottom - but she will still pound as soon as the waves get large enough to make the forefoot clear the water. The main problem is that the shape of the chine-line is such that there will be turbulence formed as the water running around the sides at the bow inevitably runs down and across the chine, and subsequently runs back across the chine in the aft sections (although this will be less of a problem than at the bow). A mitigating factor in this design is that the boat is relatively slim. It is in wide, flat boats that the problem is at its worst, causing excess drag and wild, unpredictable steering - particularly downwind.


To get an appreciation of what Im trying to describe, compare the shapes I show below: -

A typical flat-bottomed skiff with the heel of the stem immersed, and the bottom of the transom coming to above the waterline. Im only showing the body plan here, but the boat Ive drawn as the example is fairly long and slim.
The same boat heeled 25 degrees. In reality, the stern would probably be forced a bit higher and the bow lower than Ive shown here, which would make matters even worse.
A clearer view of the same boat. See how the chine line will generate turbulence and drag, and will tend to force the boat to round up.
For comparision, here is the underwater shape of the example I drew for the previous posting. While this is not a perfect shape by any means, it is vastly superior to the example shown above - but it will pound more when flat in a ripple.
It is all a matter of degree - the Featherwind mentioned by Dennis shows close to the ultimate in matching the curve of the topsides and the bottom - at least for a sharp-bowed boat - but she is best used as a sailing boat, or a rowing boat on flat water.
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